hector's take on ROSE'S heavenly CAKES

as posted on http://splendidtable.publicradio.org/recipes/dessert_golden_lemon.shtml

Featured on the December 12, 2009 episode.  Reprinted from Rose’s Heavenly Cakes by Rose Levy Berenbaum. Copyright © 2009.  Published by Wiley.

Serves 12 to 14

Baking Time: 45 to 55 minutes

So that people who avoid alcohol could still enjoy the extraordinarily moist yet soft texture of my Grand Marnier cake, I’ve adapted the recipe using ground almonds and lemon. The almonds are responsible for the wondrously moist and dense crumb. The divinely luscious fl avor of lemon is punched up with zesty lemon oil. Creating this cake presented a challenge. It required less leavening because more sugar was necessary to balance the lemon juice. I couldn’t add the extra sugar to the syrup because it wouldn’t dissolve, so it had to be added to the cake, which made the cake more tender. All-purpose flour with its higher protein compensated perfectly for the increased tenderness. I love this cake so much that I’m offering it in two sizes, first in a full-size 10-cup fluted tube pan, and also as a variation at two-thirds the size, in a 6-cup fluted tube pan, which is perfect for holiday giving. You can serve this cake the day it is made, but the lemon flavor mellows and becomes more pure, and the syrup distributes more evenly, by the next day.

PLAN AHEAD For best flavor, complete the cake 1 day ahead.

Batter

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT One 10-cup metal fluted tube pan, coated with baking spray with flour

PREHEAT THE OVEN Twenty minutes or more before baking, set an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F/175°C (325°F/160°C if using a dark pan).

TOAST AND GRIND THE ALMONDS Spread the almonds evenly on a baking sheet and bake for about 7 minutes, or until pale gold. Stir once or twice to ensure even toasting and avoid overbrowning. Cool completely. In a food processor, process until fairly fine. Add ¼ cup of the sugar and process until very fine.

MIX THE LIQUID INGREDIENTS In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, ¼ cup of the sour cream, the vanilla, and lemon oil just until lightly combined.

MAKE THE BATTER In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater, mix the ground almonds, the remaining sugar, the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and lemon zest on low speed for about 30 seconds. Add the butter and the remaining sour cream. Mix on low speed until the dry ingredients are moistened. Raise the speed to medium and beat for 1½ minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.
Starting on medium-low speed, gradually add the egg mixture in two parts, beating on medium speed for 30 seconds after each addition to incorporate the ingredients and strengthen the structure. Using a spatula or spoon, scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the surface evenly with a small metal spatula.

BAKE THE CAKE Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, or until a wooden toothpick inserted between the tube and the side comes out clean and the cake springs back when pressed lightly in the center. An instant-read thermometer inserted near the center should read 200° to 205°F/93° to 96°C.
Make the syrup shortly before the cake is finished baking.

Lemon Syrup

MAKES: ½ cup/4 fluid ounces/5.6 ounces/160 grams

MAKE THE LEMON SYRUP In a 1-cup or larger microwavable glass measure (or a small saucepan over medium heat), heat the sugar and lemon juice, stirring often until the sugar is almost completely dissolved. Do not boil. A few undissolved grains form a sparkly, crackly finish to the crust. Cover it tightly to prevent evaporation.

APPLY THE SYRUP AND COOL AND UNMOLD THE CAKE As soon as the cake comes out of the oven, place the pan on a wire rack, poke the cake all over with a thin skewer, and brush it with about one-third of the syrup. Let the cake cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Invert it onto a 10-inch cardboard round or serving plate. Brush the top and sides of the cake with the remaining syrup. Cool completely and wrap airtight.

VARIATION:

Golden Gift Lemon Almond Cake If you don’t have a 6-cup fluted tube pan, the recipe also makes a lovely presentation if baked in an 8½ by 4½-inch loaf pan (6 cups). It’s also fine to use a disposable aluminum foil pan.
Make two-thirds of the batter, but use ¾ teaspoon baking powder and ½ teaspoon of baking soda. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes. Make two-thirds of the syrup. When cool, wrap the cake in holiday-tinted plastic wrap and tie the package with a bow. This cake serves 8 to 10.

hector’s new take on ROSE’S heavenly CAKES: Golden Lemon Almond Cake (page 37) baked with avocado instead of butter, and passion fruit instead of lemon.

the taste was extraordinary, the texture was denser.  i will consider mixing this cake using an oil based mixing method instead, such as the banana refrigerator cake or the pumpkin cake:  cream the avocado with the sugar and all the wet ingredients, then add the flour and rest of dry ingredients and mix just until incorporated.

hector’s new take on ROSE’S heavenly CAKES: Golden Lemon Almond Cake (page 37) baked on the pan as done on the book, the nordic ware bavaria pan

however, i changed just about everything else:

this is ROSE’S heavenly CAKES: Golden Lemon Almond Cake (page 37) baking on the nordic ware 3D christmas tree pan

creating a tent with aluminum foil, to protect the delicate tree topper star is a must.

seldom do i make a cake twice!  yet revisit my photos.  but when i stomped to this photo, i realized i haven’t share it yet.  for ROSE’S heavenly CAKES:  Golden Lemon Almond Cake (page 37), here it is, yet my favorite photo for this amazing cake.  this is non-arguable the best non-chocolate cake on the book!

the cake was sent to Luca in Hilo, my home away from home with spectacular farmers markets:

beware and don’t be defeated.  here are your TSA rights when traveling by airplane and taking a cake as a carry on.  as done for ROSE’S heavenly CAKES:  Golden Lemon Almond Cake (page 37).  it is handy to print this out and tape it on the cake box, as TSA staff may need to be reminded!

Luca enjoyed his birthday cake so much, that he decided to bake one the very next week.  here is Luca’s take for ROSE’S heavenly CAKES:  Golden Lemon Almond Cake (page 37).

disclosure:  although delicious and well reviewed, the cake volume is lower than usual and the texture denser.  Luca misread the mixing instructions (batter for butter).  he added the liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients prior adding the butter.  he may have invented a new cake worth the take.

take two, two weeks later.  from luca:  “I made the cake again last night, as a sort of baking class for a couple of people who were at my pizza party on Saturday.  So they made it themselves under my supervision, and without mistakes (no butter/batter confusion).  Came out ONO.”

i hope you are not bored by now, as i dissect ROSE’S heavenly CAKES:  Golden Lemon Almond Cake (page 37).  the cake made it to TSA just fine.  flew 45 minutes just fine.  was kept at room temperature overnight.  then enjoyed for breakfast.  extremely proud of the cake, arriving in perfect shape.  and utterly more proud of the giant dollops of white chocolate buttercream, not falling off from the cake

and here are pictures with the cutting ceremony, what perfect cut and plating.

Hilo is a neighbor town, 45 minutes by plane south west of honolulu.  Hilo is known for their agriculture .  i don’t live in Hilo, but i can bring Hilo to me:  baby romaine, heirloom red and yellow bell peppers, fish, purple sweet potatoes, asparagus.

tip one:  several recipes in the book, such as ROSE’S heavenly CAKES: Golden Lemon Almond Cake (page 37), call for toasting nuts.  my preferred shortcut is to use the same cake pan for the cake for toasting the nuts.  when done, do not wash the pan, so traces of nut oil help the pan’s non-stick properties.  my mother used to always tell me, never wash a cake pan the same day you are using it, she meant to say:  too clean a cake pan sticks the most.

tip two:  toothpick test?  cake pick test?  cake tester test?  instant read “tip” thermometers are widely available nowadays, most inexpensive and accurate.  instead of using the traditional cake tester test, use a “tip” thermometer instead.  for most cakes, the temperature should register between 195 to 205 oF (or 147 to 160 oF for cheesecakes), when inserted on the middle of the cake without touching the cake pan.